“A single or double shot for your gin and tonic?” Thomas, our guide, asked me as we took a break from our safari to let the sun set before beginning the evening portion of our drive. We were on the banks of the Luangwa River in northern Zambia watching the hippos wade in the little water that remained. We had just spent two hours watching a pride of 6 lions relax under a mahogany tree. This group of female lions are known as the Hollywood Pride - earning their title because they’re the most photographed and filmed pride of lions in Africa. Thomas suspected the lions were hungry based on their restlessness so suggested we linger, keeping our eyes on the group of impala naively grazing on the nearby grass. Thomas was ready for my drink order. I told him, it depends, “if I’m going to see a kill tonight, I need a double. Otherwise, a single please.” Thomas walked to our mobile bar, smiled, and poured me a double.
We didn’t see a kill that night. But we saw a spectacular array of animals darting around in the afterglow of the sun. We saw a dazzle of zebras (my favorite group name for an animal) drink from the river before retiring to a nearby cluster of ebony trees. We saw a small flock of bright green lillian love birds fly from one tree to another and then disappear again, camouflaged in the green leaves. We saw vervet monkeys eat the remains of some elephant poop (“second shopping” as Thomas put it). African guinea hens ran around like dumb chickens. A bachelor party of buffalo (a male-only group that had been kicked out of the main herd) meandered towards the water, grazing on the grass along the way. We saw lots of bee eaters. The bee eater may be my favorite animal on safari - it’s a small bird that stands out amidst all the green and brown camouflage with its vibrant pink, blue and green feathers, screaming they don’t give an f about hiding from predators.
We had only arrived at Lion Camp a few hours before our evening safari drive. We slept just outside the park entrance the night prior, so our drive was a short, 2 hour, 40 kilometer drive through the Reserve to Lion Camp. The only complicating factor was that we were in a game park, which meant two things: (1) no road signs nor real roads, and (2) we could encounter animals - predators - at any moment. What would happen if we got a flat tire in front of a pride of lions (as happened to the Afrikaner we met in Springbok). What would happen if I stalled our car trying to drive through a dry sandy riverbed (which I did)? What would happen if we scared a herd of elephant and they charge our car? My hypotheticals were endless.
As for the lack of road signs, the manager of Lion Camp had sent us an intricate four-page diagram outlining our driving instructions. Road signs were replaced by the names of landmarks. The only problem was that the instructions could not be easily deciphered by two safari-naive tourists: “Turn right after an open plain with fallen mopane trees” [Great. Except, what does a mopane tree look like?]. “Turn left after the hippo highways and before the lagoon.” [Great. Except, what is a hippo highway? And what happens if there are hippos on it?]. Somehow though, we managed to arrive at Lion Camp in just three hours.
Happy to have arrived safely, the moment we walked into the hotel was one of the most spectacular moments of our trip. We walked onto a wide outdoor patio, outfitted with lounge chairs and a crystal clear blue pool, perched above a watering hole. Directly in front of us was a herd of 30 elephants drinking and cooling off in the water. And it wasn’t just elephants: there were zebras, impalas, baboons, buffalo, moneys, waterbuk and warthogs. Birds circled above. We counted at least 8 different species just in front of the camp patio. We watched in awe as the animal kingdom presented itself before us, as if to introduce us to the cast of characters we would encounter during our three day stay.
We had only arrived at Lion Camp a few hours before our evening safari drive. We slept just outside the park entrance the night prior, so our drive was a short, 2 hour, 40 kilometer drive through the Reserve to Lion Camp. The only complicating factor was that we were in a game park, which meant two things: (1) no road signs nor real roads, and (2) we could encounter animals - predators - at any moment. What would happen if we got a flat tire in front of a pride of lions (as happened to the Afrikaner we met in Springbok). What would happen if I stalled our car trying to drive through a dry sandy riverbed (which I did)? What would happen if we scared a herd of elephant and they charge our car? My hypotheticals were endless.
As for the lack of road signs, the manager of Lion Camp had sent us an intricate four-page diagram outlining our driving instructions. Road signs were replaced by the names of landmarks. The only problem was that the instructions could not be easily deciphered by two safari-naive tourists: “Turn right after an open plain with fallen mopane trees” [Great. Except, what does a mopane tree look like?]. “Turn left after the hippo highways and before the lagoon.” [Great. Except, what is a hippo highway? And what happens if there are hippos on it?]. Somehow though, we managed to arrive at Lion Camp in just three hours.
Happy to have arrived safely, the moment we walked into the hotel was one of the most spectacular moments of our trip. We walked onto a wide outdoor patio, outfitted with lounge chairs and a crystal clear blue pool, perched above a watering hole. Directly in front of us was a herd of 30 elephants drinking and cooling off in the water. And it wasn’t just elephants: there were zebras, impalas, baboons, buffalo, moneys, waterbuk and warthogs. Birds circled above. We counted at least 8 different species just in front of the camp patio. We watched in awe as the animal kingdom presented itself before us, as if to introduce us to the cast of characters we would encounter during our three day stay.
While on the patio, we watched the elephants for what felt like hours. They were magical. We watched a baby elephant - only 6 months old - try to cool herself off in the water. At that age, elephants can’t yet use their trunks, so the baby had to bend over to drink directly from her mouth. With every attempt, she would fall over and sink deeper into the mud. Then she’d try to pull herself out - a feat far too big for her size. The other elephants congregated around to help her find footing. One elephant finally laid down next to her to form a barricade, separating the baby from the looming mud bath on the other side. She slowly climbed onto the bigger elephant, dislodging herself from the mud and successfully landing on the dry grass.
Finally, we left the spectacle and found our way to our room - which turned out to be another spectacle. Our room was magnificent. It has a 270 degree view of the watering hole, an outdoor bathtub and 7 distinct seating areas. I think we were both conflicted - feeling so lucky but also undeserving of this kind of decadence. In fact, while Tom would probably prefer I not record this memory, he may have shed a tear. That being said, our feelings of undeservedness miraculously didn’t last long, as we soon found ourselves drinking decanted port while cooling off in the outdoor porcelain tub watching the animals go by. We have lots of camping ahead to make up for this indulgence.
Finally, we left the spectacle and found our way to our room - which turned out to be another spectacle. Our room was magnificent. It has a 270 degree view of the watering hole, an outdoor bathtub and 7 distinct seating areas. I think we were both conflicted - feeling so lucky but also undeserving of this kind of decadence. In fact, while Tom would probably prefer I not record this memory, he may have shed a tear. That being said, our feelings of undeservedness miraculously didn’t last long, as we soon found ourselves drinking decanted port while cooling off in the outdoor porcelain tub watching the animals go by. We have lots of camping ahead to make up for this indulgence.
The next day we work up at 5:15am for our morning safari drive. We saw a leopard, wildebeest and mongoose. We saw an endless supply of antelope - impalas, springbok, redbok, waterbuck and kudu. Impalas were everywhere, yet still our guide would stop for them, every time commenting on how beautiful they were. We got too close to elephants - at one point Thomas had to tell me to stop moving because I was breaking the “unity” of the Jeep which could scare the elephant. We saw hippos and crocodiles and lots and lots of colorful birds. It was different than a walking safari because we were able to get so close to the animals. We could see them and watch their interactions much more intimately. I’ve now realized driving and walking safaris are two very distinct experiences - both with their merits and both fantastic.
We finished the morning drive, ate breakfast, lounged by the pool, ate lunch, read, talked with Wayne and Vicky the camp managers, took naps and then began our evening drive. Once the sun went down on the evening drive, everything felt scary. We could see the iridescent green reflection of animal eyes, which seemed to follow us as we drove. Then we’d see more eyes. They were everywhere.
We continued driving in the dark when, unexpectedly, we ran right into the Hollywood pride again just seconds after they had killed an impala. They were still tearing its body into pieces - breaking bread in the bush. The visuals were spectacular but nothing could compete with the sound. The sound of the lions crunching through the impala’s bones as they devoured the carcass.
Two of the lions were fighting over their share of dinner - their teeth each firmly gripping a prized piece of meat. They danced in circles - like boxers in a headlock moving slowly but powerfully - their yellow coats were sullied with blood. They growled while they pulled against each other. I knew they were from the same pride, but it felt like they would destroy each other if they needed to.
Our spotlight and attention were focused on the two lions fighting front and center. So it was a paralyzing shock to hear and then immediately see one of the other lions walk directly to the left of our car, centimeters away from Tom. During the day when the lions passed so close they looked friendly and oblivious to our existence. Now with blood covering their faces and their brutal power exposed, their proximity filled both Tom and me with terror. We sat still. Watching and listening. The lions continued to grab meat from the center and then circle around our Jeep looking for a place to feast. There was no light save the spotlight focused on the one lion left in front of us. We couldn’t see the other five, but we knew they were surrounding us and we felt helpless. We could feel their presence through the darkness.
Once the lions were done eating, three of them congregated behind us and as we pulled away I could see them licking each other’s fur; gently and kindly bathing each other off after their feast, back in each other’s good graces, once again a unified pride.
We continued driving in the dark when, unexpectedly, we ran right into the Hollywood pride again just seconds after they had killed an impala. They were still tearing its body into pieces - breaking bread in the bush. The visuals were spectacular but nothing could compete with the sound. The sound of the lions crunching through the impala’s bones as they devoured the carcass.
Two of the lions were fighting over their share of dinner - their teeth each firmly gripping a prized piece of meat. They danced in circles - like boxers in a headlock moving slowly but powerfully - their yellow coats were sullied with blood. They growled while they pulled against each other. I knew they were from the same pride, but it felt like they would destroy each other if they needed to.
Our spotlight and attention were focused on the two lions fighting front and center. So it was a paralyzing shock to hear and then immediately see one of the other lions walk directly to the left of our car, centimeters away from Tom. During the day when the lions passed so close they looked friendly and oblivious to our existence. Now with blood covering their faces and their brutal power exposed, their proximity filled both Tom and me with terror. We sat still. Watching and listening. The lions continued to grab meat from the center and then circle around our Jeep looking for a place to feast. There was no light save the spotlight focused on the one lion left in front of us. We couldn’t see the other five, but we knew they were surrounding us and we felt helpless. We could feel their presence through the darkness.
Once the lions were done eating, three of them congregated behind us and as we pulled away I could see them licking each other’s fur; gently and kindly bathing each other off after their feast, back in each other’s good graces, once again a unified pride.
Lion Camp had earned its eponymous title. But that wasn’t the last of it. We woke up the next morning to find a pride of 4 male lions (called the Nomads) sleeping right in front of the camp patio and apparently while we were on our morning game drive they chased a lone buffalo directly in front of our chalet. The staff said they tried to watch the end of the chase but didn’t have keys to our room. Then, that evening we set off for our evening drive and found the Nomads lazily resting on the road within the property boundaries. They had successfully killed a different buffalo and were sleeping off their hunting success. At that moment, leaving the camp to go on a game drive felt futile, we had everything we needed right in front of us (including a cool pool from which to watch it all unfold).
